WATERPROOF YOUR BIKE

Think of it: what is your worst nightmare on a bike... maybe a lion chasing youbut other than that ...WATER. Yes fellow mounties, that tasteless, clear liquid (life saver for a thirsty you) first performs as a carrier agent for dirt, creating a sandy paste that steals power from bearings, eats away at your brakes and grinds off years of life from your drivetrain. With repeated exposure, water will outsmart your O-rings and contact seals. Once it has broken down the last barriers, the water and sludge mixture pollutes any grease and oil it can find until it corrodes every moving part on your mountain bike.
       
Heavy stuff, eh? Well, don’t let a few swimming sessions get in the way of your fun. Below are pretty cool anti-moisture tricks and some good ol’ preventative maintenance tips that will keep your bike going until somebody figures out how to build a floating waterproof bike.

Now first for the Catch 22: It takes water to keep water from ruining the bike. Immediately after mud rides, use a low-pressure garden hose and wash the grit away before it hardens like cement. Let the bike dry completely indoors overnight before relubricating your key parts. Protect the frame’s finish with bike polish or spray wax.

Lube aids: Load the pedal’s latching mechanism and springs with grease and they won’t pack with mud easily. Spraying the underside of fenders and coating the pedals with a non-stick cooking spray like Cook & Spray helps shed the mud, too.

Double seal: Cut sections of an old rubber inner tube to stretch over the headset cups, shock springs and the seatpost-to-seat tube junction. Lizard Skins makes stretchable covers that quickly install with hook and loop strips. If your fork came with fork boots, please, we know it look cool to cut them smaller, but don't they were made for a reason

Brakes that last: Standard brake pads wear quickly in inclement conditions. Ritchey, Kool-Stop and WTB sell special, hi-abrasive pads that are designed for longevity and superior winter stopping. Beware, wet-compound pads will not stop as well as harder dry-compound pads in warmer weather.

Motocrossing: Now that bicycle fenders have taken on a motorcycle look, they offer plenty mud clearance. A Grunge Guard cover can keep your derailleur from packing with mud.

Cold weather ointment: Don’t even think of subjecting your ride to the elements without first giving it a fresh overhaul. All suspension pivots, headset, shock, fork and componentry should be relubricated with waterproof grease. Don’t forget to grease the seatpost where it inserts into the frame.

Positive communication: Moisture can work into the cable housings and freeze them solid. Occasionally unhook the housings from the frame guides and pull back the sealed housing caps. Blow them out with compressed air or use a clamp-on lubrication device to inject a “dry” lubricant into the housing until it flows out the opposite end. WD40 will work in a pinch but if you can find it use Miracle Tools Lubricant (very expensive but worth while).

Link lore: Use soapy water and a brush to wash sludge off the chain. The chain must dry overnight before you apply lube or the oil will hold moisture inside the pivots. Wet lube works best because it fills the rollers with a liquid barrier that repels water and keeps grit out.

Flat warning: Water can soften rim tape and the tube will push it deep into the nipple hole—deep enough to cut the tape and tube in the hole’s sharp edges. Heavy duty Velox rim tape only weighs 8 grams more than wimpy rim-tape, but will last through the winter another fine trick is to use plain and simple masking tape. tape it around your rim inside for about five or six times. Cheap and efficient.