HOW TO TRUE YOUR WHEEL
The bicycle wheel as we know it in the traditional hub spoke and rim configuration, is nothing short of an engineering marvel. Sure, some new designs using opposing spokes, carbon fibre blades, and aerodynamic rims have made their appearance in the last few years. Such wheels often require high maintenance and special tools required to service them. But apart from high tech looks, surprisingly little more is offered to the average rider above a good quality traditional wheel. A well built pair of wheels should last many years, rarely needing to be maintained.
Requirements to true the wheel
A spoke wrench of the correct size to match the spoke nipples. The wrong wrench will damage the nipples and round them off so you will have to replace them.
A wheel truing stand, or the bike flipped upside down. A wheel-truing stand is the most accurate
Keep some spare spokes of the same lengths as used in your wheels as spares.
Allen Keys
Rubber bands
The spokes
Stainless steel, with brass or alloy nipples. The number of spokes will be 28, 32, or 36 on most bikes.
Although 24 and 40 spoke wheels are also used, they are not very common.
However, the number of spokes will always be a multiples of 4.
A bicycle wheel maintains its strength by supporting members which are used under stress rather than compression.
You can imagine the tension it would require to break a spoke by pulling it.
The configuration of the spokes in a bicycle wheel can follow a variety of different patterns.
Look carefully at your wheels, and see how the spokes interact with each other.
Other more exotic patterns can also be used, but will not be discussed below.
Radial spoking: the spokes radiate vertically outwards from the hub towards the rim without crossing each other.
Crossed spokes: the spokes radiate away from the hub at an angle- crossing one or more of the neighbouring spokes on the way. Spokes in this configuration may cross others one to three times or more.
The hub
Normally aluminium, with either cup and cone-type bearings or sealed cartridge bearings.
If you look closely at the hubs you will see 14, 16, or 18 holes in the flange on each side of the hub.
The holes do not match up with the holes on the opposite flange.
In fact, they will be offset exactly.
| Step 1 Inspect the rim for obvious dents, and cracks. Pay attention to areas around the spoke holes. Damaged spokes should be replaced. Start by removing the tyre, tube and rim tape, and put a small drop of oil on top of each spoke nipple. Step 2 You can use two allen keys and mount them in the frame using rubber bands. One allen key can be set against the side of the rim (lateral), and the other on the outside of the rim (concentric) Step 3 Select a spot where the rim runs nicely through the centre of the frame. Mark this spot with some crayon or chalk. Now slowly spin the wheel. Work in half to quarter turn increments, until the rim runs true laterally. (no side to side movement.) If a spoke feels too tight, then rather loosen the opposing spoke closest to the tight one a little instead. Step 4 Position the other allen key on top of the rim and find areas where the rim bulges outwards. This should pull the rim down but maintain lateral settings. At the areas where there are dips, you should follow the same procedure, loosening instead of tightening the spokes. Be patient and work in small increments- half or quarter turns at a time. Once the wheel seems to be round, do one more pass at the lateral setting to make sure the wheel is free of side to side wobbles. One last check at concentric trueness, and you are ready to go. Step 5 Wipe off any oil. Fit rim tape, tyre and tube and inflate. Smooth riding...and keep the rubber on the dirt
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